Steve Schultz does most of our video work and while climbing remains a passion of his, he truly prefers to sit behind a camera. He’s been bouldering at Devil’s Lake for over half his life and while most people think of him as a boulderer, he does have a couple of big walls to his name. Additionally he used to run a mostly ridiculous, but sometimes interesting blog called Sicky Gnar Gnar
1 – How do you make your living? Sales rep for prAna .
2 – How long have you been climbing? 17 years now.
3 – What’s your favorite route and why? Cathedral Peak, Tuolumne Meadows. In 2005, a week before Tioga Pass opened for the season my roommate and I rode bikes into the Tuolumne from the gate. We climbed Cathedral and then biked out, which was an absolute slog on the borrowed, tiny mountain bike I had. We ate lunch in the middle of the road and had the entirety of Tuolumne to ourselves. It’s something I’ll never, ever forget.
4 – What’s your favorite boulder problem and why? Moj. No question for me despite that it’s not necessarily “classic”. It doesn’t have an obvious start, it’s kinda dabby, it traverses and the right hand jug will probably break at some point, but it will never stop being special to me. The experience of establishing something hard, for me, during 2009 when we were just starting to revitalize bouldering at Devil’s Lake, is an incredibly memorable one.
5 – What made you want to be a board member of the WCA? For years access was a “don’t ask don’t tell’ type of situation in the Midwest and having the chance to change that conversation was a huge opportunity. Everything we’ve done at Devil’s Lake from the trail days to the comps has made a massive impression on the park staff. I can’t wait to build on that.
6 – What excites you the most about the future of climbing in Wisconsin? That there’s still so much new rock to climb. Last fall I was able to establish or re-establish 10-15 problems at an area that’s a 5 minute walk from the most traveled road at the lake. All had flat landings, nice rock, obvious lines and probably hadn’t been done in 15-20 years, if at all. There’s so much rock out there it’s overwhelming.
7 – What’s your favorite memory of climbing in the midwest? In 2005 Peter De Salvo took a huge group of us through a circuit on the West Bluff. We hit the Fire Road, 45 degree boulder, established Anchorpoint and then finished at Alpine Club/Beautiful Soup. I’d just moved back from California and having never seen any of those boulders, it opened my eyes to the potential of an area that I thought was climbed out.